Tuesday, 26 August 2014

1950's Cherry Dress- Ms J's Flat Pattern Cutting and Draping!!!



Just as the Summer draws to a close, I finally finish my Cherry Dress.  It took my so long to make in between my other commitments, but it was so worth the effort! This dress is just lovely.  Even if I say so myself!!!
These dresses were my inspiration.

My challenge was:
Can you, seriously, draft a dress similar to this from scratch and sew it together??

This took me out of my patternmaking box, as I had to think about how to draft these design features instead of just doing what I know to do. Although I didn't do the pockets. Old habits die hard eh?

I had to call on my trusty tailors dummy so we could do some draping together. I then translated that into a flat paper pattern.

This cherry fabric is louder than I usually wear, but sometimes a girl needs a change.  It's a lovely cotton but to make the double pleats pop like I wanted, I decided to underline with a plain cream cotton instead of lining the traditional way.

Yes, I know, I could have ironed the fabic before taking the picture. Hangs head in shame.

And here it is!


 Low back, double inverted box pleats, waistband, lapped zip and underlined thoughout.
The Cherry Dress feels heavy, pleats look crisp, it's very eyecatching and looks even better on, but there's no picture coz you know me, I'm shy!!

Thursday, 12 June 2014

I Love a Peplum! I never had one so I designed my own!!!


I don't even know if peplums are  in fashion anymore and I don't care ! I fancied a pepum so I made my own.

I found some old black cotton blend material from years ago that I never used, if I spoiled this then it's no disaster.

 I like a princess seam, so challenge number 1 was to change my basic bodice block with the darts into princess seams. I wanted the princess seams coming from the armhole not the seams coming from the shoulder. Like this...

My basic block


I got a thing for pleats at the moment  Not pleated skirts coz I got enough going on in the hip department, but pleats as detail. This frock needed to have a pleat in the peplum.

To make the peplum I measured the amount of fabric I'd need to go around  ( allowing for the pleat), cut paper to match and then slashed and spread the paper to get the pepum width at the bottom.  I them stuck this template to another piece of paper and that became the peplum.
I know there are much more elegant, mathematical means of doing this, but I can't be doing with them.
Can't believe one frock has so many pattern pieces!







The finished article!


The sleeves were orginally three-quarter length, but since I had a lil bit of the fabric left, I decided to make a decision to add an additional pleat detail to the sleeve to match the peplum.

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My first peplum!

Saturday, 10 May 2014

My fully lined self drafted floral Summer frock

It was a cold wet rainy day, but when I saw this fabric I was transported to a world where it's tropical and I I'm soaking up the sun and looking fabulous in my full skirted summer frock.

Four meters of material and loads of pattern paper later, here is the frock I created.  All from my imagination and lined with green polycotton that I got for a bargain.

Well pleased, but one silly mistake, decided last minute to shorten the shoulder seam and in doing so, raised up my bust darts by 0.5 cm.   The fabric kinda hides it so its OK and it got a couple of complements.

Overall I'm happy with my design, I'll be making this again.




Here is my wonderful assistant modelling the frock
The line drawing my self drafted pattern is based on